# 36 Fly Fishing Reels

Fly Fishing Reels, What is the real deal

In prior post I briefly talked about a fly reel and how in the beginning you need not be too concerned about a performance reel unless your target species is Salmon, or Saltwater game fish.

Today I will spent a few more minutes giving you some detailed information about fly fishing reels.

If you are just learning to fly fish and have purchased a starter package , from Cabela’s, Walmart, or  Orvis set up. The reel that is provided with those kits will work just fine for you to learn with. Let’s fast forward a season and you are looking to upgrade your equipment, but the question as to what to look for when you buy a reel is still a mystery.

Let’s start with some of the basic question that you need to address before you get in the truck and march into the fly shop and start the process.

In the world of fly reels let me give you a quick look at the manufacturing of the reel itself. There are two basic types of ways to make a fly reel, Cast and Machined.

There is a big difference between cast fly reels and machined fly reels. This difference is what separates cheaper reels from expensive reels. Cast reels are made by molten aluminum poured into a mold. These reels are less durable, but they are generally decent. Machined reels are carved from solid bar stock aluminum – they are much stronger and more structurally sound.

“Does it matter which one I buy”? Some people may argue and say it does not matter, others will jump up and down and scream that it does matter. Over the years I have purchased both type of reels, and yes there is some differences, but in the end they will both do the job for which they are intended.

Here is a short list from another web article on this subject:

Pros Of Cast Fly Reels

• Cast reels are much more affordable

• They can still have very good drag systems

• More accessible for beginner anglers

Cons Of Cast Fly Reels

• Less durable

• If you drop them, they tend to crack or shatter

I currently own several cast reels and so far they are doing a great job, (now that I have said that I will no doubt muck one up next week).

Pros Of Machined Fly Reels

• Extremely durable

• Usually comes with a better warranty

• Drag systems are usually better

• Anodized finishes (cool graphics)

Cons Of Machined Fly Reels

• More expensive

So, take this information with a grain of salt when it comes to this part of the buying process. I will cover some of the things you should consider when making a purchase.

Species:

You should have already made up your mind by now as to which fish you target most often. There is a big difference between a reel for Trout, and a reel for Tarpon. Make sure the reel you are considering will match the rod you plan to use, try not to put a 9wt. reel on a 4 wt. rod. The balance of the rod is a key factor when you get a new reel.

Trout:

If you are going to chase Trout, you can really just choose the reel that you like. Drag systems for Trout need not be as bomb proof as reels for Salmon. Some fly guys still like to use the old “pawl” system, which is only a clicker, and not really a drag.

Large arbor or small arbor?, personally, I like large arbor reels for all of my reels. When you have a large arbor reel you can pick up, (or reel up line) much quicker than a smaller more traditional reel. For example, you are casting out and you have 20 ft. of line around your feet then you hook a fish. The fish makes a big run, and you decide that you need to get this fish “on the reel”, this is when a larger arbor comes in handy.

Bass:

When you are choosing a reel for primarily Bass, you again need to make a few choices. Large arbor is a good choice, because like I said, picking up line is nice, but for Bass you will most likely have an 8wt. or 9 wt. rod. Make sure the reel can handle the capacity of the line you intend to use. Some people will use a  shooting head system and others just a normal floating line. Capacity needs are different for these.        For Bass a  better drag system will come in handy when you try to stop a largie from getting back to that snag. If you use a clicker drag, you will have your hands full when your Bass make a big run.

Saltwater:

Reels used in Saltwater are a totally different breed of reel. Saltwater is very corrosive, so salt reels are manufactured differently than a trout reel. Drag system for salt reels normally are sealed units, to prevent salt or sand from damaging internals. Plus, the drag system of a salt reel can literally stop a small car, because let’s face it, Tarpon and Tuna are big strong fish. Capacity is crucial, larger Tarpon can peel 150 yards of line and backing in a split second. Your salt reel (needs) to have the capacity to handle these big explosive runs. Your trout or bass reel will literally “be bringing a knife to a gun fight”,

One more thing to look for in a salt reel is the handle. It is nice to have a larger handle because you will be doing a lot of reeling. Large handles have a downside to then, just anyone who has had their fingers smashed when a big fish blasts off and your fingers where in the wrong place at the wrong time.

I thought I could use my bass gear on Barracuda one fateful day and boy oh boy did my buddy have a field day with me. I hooked a Cuda, it pulled my fly line and most of my backing out before I even knew what happened, I was unable to slow this fish down.

So, do your homework before you buy a salt reel, and when it comes to salt reels, you really do get what you pay for.

How to take care of my new reel?

What a perfect time to talk about cleaning. I just finished cleaning a few of my reels but I need to make you aware. Fly reels for the most part are very easy to service, (not like a baitcaster reel). A fly reel has few moving parts, the spool and maybe a drag lever, and maybe a clicker. I has pictures of three different styles of reels so you might be able to get a better understanding of your reel

The first picture is of the original style clicker and pawl system. If you look close you can see there is very few parts that actually move. So cleaning is very easy, just make sure there is no big dirt clods in the housing, the spindle is clean, and put a very small amount of light grease on the spindle and you should be good to go.

Next picture is of a reel with a disk drag system. Think of this like the disc brakes on your car, it has a disk and small brake pads. To clean this again make sure all of the parts are clean and free of dirt or blobs of grease. Once everything is squeaky clean, put a small amount (I do mean small) of light grease on the spindle, but be warned, if you get grease on the disk or the pads, you will be unhappy with the results.

Last picture is of a reel with an intenal drag. You can see it is very simple in it’s design, so I just make sure all parts are free from dirt and debris, inspect all parts to make sure nothing is wearing out and moving as it should. Place a small amount of light grease on the spindle, make sure the handle is free of grit or sand, and you should be ready to go.

It might not be a bad idea to look at the specs from the reel manufacturer to make sure there is no weird service issue you need to concider, and see if they have a recommended grease to use, also make doubly sure that you do not void your warranty my going monkey wrench on your reels.

I realized I kept saying to use a light grease on your reels but did not tell you what I use. On most of my reels I like to use Silicone Paste. It is light and does not attract too much dust.

If you have something you are in love with by all means go ahead and try it, but please do not spray a can full of WD-40 into the side of your reel. Two things, first it will make a mess, and attract dust like a magnet, second it can melt the coating on your fly line. I think #2 is counter productive for our talk.

A couple of pieces of wisdom, take a close look at the groove on the spool to make sure there is no dust or dirt in the small groove. If you set your reel down on the sand, as soon as you pick it up and begin to reel, you might hear the grosses sound ever, of dirt being ground into the aluminum frame of the reel. So Please don't be that guy that dunks his reel in the river and sets it on the river bottom, while they are releasing a fish..

So let’s wrap this up ok.

Here is a statement from the Orvis web site on this topic. I think there is a fair amount of truth in it.

With all the reels on the market, looks may also be a consideration. After all, you’ll be spending hours with this reel attached to your rod. Picking one that looks good and matches your style is also a consideration.

I hope this will help you in your quest to buy your next reel,

Cheers

Gary, aka LaMachine